Best Hotels in Europe in 2012
Austria
König von Ungarn, Vienna
This “simply amazing” small hotel within throwing distance of the Imperial Palace and museums, and steps from St. Stephen’s Cathedral, gets a perfect location score. It was an apartment building for Hungarian aristocrats and magnates during the Austro-Hungarian empire in the late 1800s, hence the Ungarn in its name. Both traditional rooms with antique rural crafts and modern rooms with contemporary furniture are arranged around a lobby atrium filled with trees. You’ll feel “transported far, far from home” at the restaurant, which dates to the eighteenth century and serves dishes like Kaiserschmarrn (caramelized pancake). Mozart lived in an apartment above it. The bar in the airy inner courtyard is a central gathering place for the local movers and shakers.
Hotel Sacher, Vienna
“Charming and with an excellent location,” this “very nice, old-world hotel” opened in 1876 across from the Vienna State Opera and was once a meeting place for Austrian nobility. “Exceptional accommodations” are decorated with antique furniture, original oil paintings, and silk wall coverings, while select suites on the top floors have private roof terraces. Recently updated rooms have iPod docking stations and flat-screen televisions. Dig in to the Sacher torte, the chocolate cake that is a hallmark of the hotel, at Café Sacher, where the glassed-in terrace transforms into an open sidewalk café during the summer. Rote Bar Restaurant serves Viennese cuisine, including Wiener schnitzel, with Austrian wines.
Hotel Sacher Salzburg
At this 1866 grande dame on the Salzach River, almost every “charming room” affords a view of the Old Town and the fortress, while inside the focus is on oil paintings, Austrian antiques, and rugs. The glass-roofed lobby is the hotel’s centerpiece. “Despite the small rooms and dated decor, I choose to stay here again and again. The staff are incredibly knowledgeable and always happy to help.” Roter Salon serves regional and international cuisine, while Café Sacher dishes up its signature chocolate torte. Zirbelzimmer, with dark wood and hunting memorabilia, is meat-heavy, with such dishes as ox fillet and beef consommé.
Hotel Imperial, Vienna
The former residence of the prince of Württemberg, converted to a hotel for the 1873 World’s Fair, this neoclassical palace is in a “great spot” on Vienna’s main boulevard, Kärtner Ring. Guests “really enjoy” the suites filled with antiques and prettied with silk and chandeliers; some have private balconies overlooking the city. Relax with a coffee at Café Imperial, or sate that sweet tooth with desserts made with Viennese sweet wines at Restaurant Imperial. Unwind at Bar Maria Theresia with an evening of cocktails and live music. The bath butlers bring fruit, cigars, and guests’ favorite music to accompany a bath using L’Occitane salts. “The name says it all. It’s truly imperial in every way.”
Hotel Bristol, Vienna
“Centrally located across the street from the opera house,” this hotel has rooms that “take your breath away” with rich textiles and marble, crystal, and ...
Regent Esplanade Zagreb
Near the main train station, this 1925 Art Deco property was originally a stop for passengers on the Orient Express and still “exudes the elegance and refinement of that time.” “It has a wonderful location and is full of old-world charm.” Staff serve champagne at check-in. Green and burgundy or blue and beige hues, modern light fixtures, and Croatian artwork accent the “very large rooms.” Zinfandel’s has suede banquettes, Mediterranean dishes, and Croatian wines: “The baked cheese dessert is truly outstanding. The waiter suggested sharing—so we shared twice.” The property offers Segway city tours. If visiting during the cold season, pack your skates—an ice rink opens on the Oleander Terrace each winter.
Mandarin Oriental, Prague
A “heavenly property with a quiet location in the heart of a bustling city” describes this five-year-old hotel in the historic Malá Strana district, near Prague Castle. The Renaissance- and Baroque-style property was once a monastery and dates to the fourteenth century, making it “the perfect combination of history and modernity.” The perfect-scoring individually designed rooms are “luxurious and modern,” with parquet floors, vaulted ceilings, and polished limestone bathrooms. The Gothic-style spa’s glass floors reveal the ruins of a chapel below. Asian and European fare is served at Essensia—try the local specialty, roasted suckling pig.
Four Seasons, Prague
It’s “perfection from A to Z” at this red-roofed complex in the Old Town. Connecting a new structure to three existing ones—a Baroque house on the site of a former laundry, a fish merchant’s house, and a factory—this property on the Vltava River melds neo-Renaissance and classical architecture with interiors of limestone paneling and local lithographs. “Staff couldn’t be more helpful.” Some rooms have ceiling moldings and hand-painted stenciling; others have gold leaf and Biedermeier-style furniture. A new Italian restaurant opens in February 2012.
Aria Hotel, Prague
A few minutes’ walk from Old Town Square, this music-themed former theater strikes a playful tone starting with the music-note floor mosaic in the lobby. ...
Chewton Glen, New Forest, Hampshire
This “superb, memorable” eighteenth-century redbrick country house is set at the edge of the New Forest, a 20-minute walk from the English Channel. Swathed in greens and yellows, perfect-scoring rooms are “lovely little sanctuaries” blending antique furniture and modern textiles; some have private garden terraces. The “staff were excellent in all areas,” also garnering a perfect score. Guests “love the ambience and the grounds,” which include flower gardens and a croquet lawn. Take afternoon tea in a leather armchair surrounded by first editions at Colonel Tinkers Bar. Vetiver is spread across five rooms, including a wine room and a conservatory, and serves English specialties. “It lived up to its reputation of promising a truly great English experience.”
The Halkin, London
The perfect-scoring staff at this hotel in Belgravia near Hyde Park “go out of their way to do anything and everything to make your stay terrific,” while wearing uniforms designed by Giorgio Armani. The weathered brick and Portland stone building has interiors colored to evoke the five elements. Rooms, reached via a corridor of black corrugated wood paneling, are mostly in shades of white, with accents of brown and purple, and have Sapele hardwood veneers and Egyptian cotton linens. Nahm offers contemporary Thai cuisine like quail salad with sour-plum leaves. “It’s a great property, really a hidden gem.”
The Goring, London
At this traditional English hotel, “personal attention abounds, and service is superb but not intrusive.” Built in 1910—the last hotel to be constructed during King Edward VII’s reign—the “quintessentially British” property is still run by the same family that first opened it. Its location, next to Buckingham Palace, “could not be more convenient.” Guest rooms are individually designed and “over the top, but perfectly so,” some with garden views, woven-silk patterns, and English country-house eccentricities—all rooms have stuffed sheep in them. The Dining Room serves traditional British fare, including steak and kidney pudding and pea-shoot salad, under Swarovski chandeliers. Head to the vaulted-ceiling Bar and Lounge for single malts and cognacs.
Milestone Hotel, London
Located in the residential neighborhood Kensington, just off Hyde Park and facing Kensington Palace, this nineteenth-century Victorian prides itself on its two-to-one staff-to-guest ratio. “The service is the best.” Upon their arrival, a butler pours guests a glass of champagne, while housekeeping comes twice a day, leaving a different bag of candy each time—butter fudge, toffee whirls, Turkish delight. Design includes tapestry sofas and pictures of horses at the Stables Bar. Guest rooms have themes—there is the Safari Suite, the Parisian Mistinguette, and the black-and-white Harlequin Suite —fireplaces, and Penhaligon’s toiletries. The best have floor-to-ceiling windows. At checkout, guests receive homemade biscuits as a farewell.
The Lanesborough, London
“What can I say? There is the Lanesborough, and then there are all the other hotels in Europe.” The white-stone Greek Revival on Hyde Park Corner and near Buckingham Palace was once a hospital. The Library Bar offers drinks from a 1770 cognac bottle for $6,300 a shot. Equipped with laptops and decorated in 1820s furniture, rooms have “beds that you’ll never want to leave.” Butlers are assigned to each room—“the service is legendary.” Guests of the 4,000-square-foot Lanesborough Suite have a chauffeur-driven Rolls-Royce Phantom at their disposal. Apsleys restaurant, with its glass roof, makes meals feel “like dining in a cross between a conservatory and a jewel case.” Monticelli Mud is a detoxifying treatment at the spa.
Château de la Chèvre d'Or, Côte d'Azur
In a medieval village on a cliff between Monaco and Nice above the Mediterranean, this former artists’ retreat is divided between a stone castle and buildings within the village. Cobblestoned paths lead to individually decorated rooms, most with sea views. Inside, stone is incorporated into the floor, walls, and ceilings. “We loved the Presidential Suite,” an homage to gilt where the sundeck has a heated infinity pool and whirlpool with sea views. The cuisine in the main restaurant, La Chèvre d’Or—which is open from March through December—“is better than the chichi places in Monte-Carlo.” Les Remparts serves Mediterranean dishes on a terrace with views over the bay to St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat.
Four Seasons Hotel George V Paris
“The lobby alone is worth the trip.” This 1928 white-stone Art Deco landmark with an inner courtyard, near the Champs-Élysées, is where “the magic of Paris comes to life.” Public spaces come in shades of beige, off-white, and pale gray, and feature Norwegian wood paneling and seventeenth-century tapestries from Flanders. “Amazing rooms” designed by Pierre-Yves Rochon are illuminated by chandeliers, and have classic French furniture, rich fabrics, and reproductions of Renaissance art. “The floral arrangements in the rooms are a work of genius”; some rooms have private balconies or terraces. In addition to its French cuisine, Le Cinq has “an attractive bar, with top service.”
Park Hyatt Paris–Vendôme
High ceilings, colonnades, and courtyards dominate at this “centrally located boutique hotel” that combines five Haussmann-era buildings on the rue de la Paix, minutes from the Louvre and Cartier. Interiors belie the nineteenth-century building’s origins—they are completely contemporary, with stone, bronze, and mahogany dominant. Rooms are outfitted with rich fabrics in light neutral and deep wine colors. The grill restaurant, Pur’, has a rotunda with a modern peristyle and serves line-caught sea bass and Brittany lobster. “The staff are very friendly, and the service excellent.”
Le Meurice, Paris
Staying at this seven-story 1835 landmark is “like sliding into a comfortable smoking jacket—a perfect fit.” On the rue de Rivoli between the Louvre and the Place de la Concorde, it’s in “the best location in all of Paris, especially for museum lovers.” Rooms in a palette of light colors and bright accents have period-style furnishings as well as views of the Tuileries Gardens, the Musée d’Orsay, and the Eiffel Tower. The wraparound terrace of the Belle Étoile Suite has 360-degree views of Paris. At Restaurant Le Meurice, food like roasted lamb from Lozère “lives up to the expectations of a Paris experience.”
Domaine des Hauts de Loire, Onzain
This “immaculately maintained” 1860 hunting lodge, amid rolling hills and towering trees in the Loire’s castle and wine region, has a swan-filled pond and accommodations in a carriage house or an ivy-covered chateau. Decorated in floral and antique furniture, some with exposed wood-beamed ceilings, French country rooms are “comfortable, and the bathrooms refreshingly large.” The main dining room serves classic French cuisine, including chicken, lamb, and lobster, and “the waitstaff were very attentive to my food sensitivities.” Take a bike ride through the vineyards to “the lovely, romantic countryside.”
Germany
The Regent Berlin
“We were blown away.” In a perfect-scoring location on a quiet street near the tree-lined Unter den Linden, this corner property on Gendarmenmarkt offers “very comfortable, spotless rooms” in soft colors, with Biedermeier furniture and optional classical music. “The views of the square and a beautiful church were amazing.” “Staff cleaned our room almost the moment we walked out each morning.” Guests can rent a Mercedes with a driver for $146 per hour. “There’s not a bad table” in Fischers Fritz, which focuses on seafood.
Park Hyatt Hamburg
This “elegant maritime-inspired hotel” housed in a former warehouse is “conveniently located” near Alster Lake and shopping on Mönckebergstrasse. The lobby has a stained-glass skylight, and the “large, comfortable rooms” are decorated in earthy tones with cherrywood. Spa-inspired bathrooms include wet areas that pay homage to the Japan’s bathing culture. The “great facilities on site” include a recently renovated sauna and pool area, which has a painted mural of the ocean. The show kitchen at Apples Restaurant turns out dishes like linumer veal, back of deer, and chateaubriand, while Park Lounge offers snacks, cakes, and afternoon tea by the fire. The staff are “top-notch.”
Mandarin Oriental, Munich
This nineteenth-century neo-Renaissance stucco building near Maximilianstrasse possesses a “great location for walking in Munich.” Rooms have views of the city’s red roofs, cherrywood furniture in the style of the neo-Biedermeier period, and cream, gold, and brown hues. Inlaid French and Italian marble floors welcome guests upon entry to the property, while the lobby, in tones of lavender, terra-cotta, and brown, has a number of original Biedermeier furnishings. Restaurant Mark’s serves up Asian-inflected Mediterranean dishes. A gym is slated to open in January 2012.
Hotel Adlon Kempinski Berlin
This 1907 limestone block is located next to the Brandenburg Gate and near major embassies and the Reichstag. “The historical associations give you chills.” Its artistic lobby, with golden ceilings and a stained-glass dome, is “a perfect place to have afternoon tea.” Rooms with oak floors are done in beige, reds, and blue, all with gold accents. The recently opened Möet Ice Impérial Lounge, located on the hotel’s terrace at Pariser Platz, has a direct view of the gate. Lorenz Adlon restaurant serves haute European, including venison in pepper sauce with beets and horseradish.
Ritz-Carlton Berlin
Rooms at this sandstone, steel, and glass skyscraper on Potsdamer Platz, overlooking Tiergarten Park, have heated bathroom floors, cherry armoires, and a brown and gold palette. “Helpful, great staff” will accommodate even the youngest of travelers: Amenities include luxury strollers and mini Mercedes pedal cars. Go to Brasserie Desbrosses to dine in front of a show kitchen, or for its breakfast buffet of fruit, croissants, and crêpes.
Greece
Perivolas, Santorini
“A dream place for the soul! One feels whole again after staying at this paradisiacal sanctuary.” Sitting on a cliff above the island’s famous caldera, this resort “embodies simplicity, elegance, and tranquillity.” Modern, spare rooms converted from 300-year-old caves have clean white walls and pops of vivid fuchsia, geranium, mauve, aqua, and rose, courtesy of the cushions and bedding. There are no televisions, but there is an “absolutely marvelous infinity pool”; Mediterranean fish and other seafood plus Greek wines are served on a deck overlooking it. Staff are “friendly, warm, and accommodating, second to none.”
Hotel Grande Bretagne, Athens
This 1874 stone building with marble and wood is “in the heart of things” on Constitution Square. Rooms, though “still a bit small,” use restored antiques and “very elegant” marble baths to set the tone. Suites come with butler service and Gilchrist & Soames bathroom amenities. Watch the changing of the guards or unwind with a martini at Alexander’s Bar, under an eighteenth-century tapestry of Alexander the Great. Decorated in Art Deco style, GB Corner serves Greek specialties like roasted white grouper with artichoke; its rooftop garden bar supplies views of the Acropolis—“it’s one of the most beautiful places in the world to have dinner.” “The service was superb, but the high food prices aren’t completely justified.”
Hungary
Four Seasons Gresham Palace Budapest
This former home to an insurance company is “a must if you stay in Budapest.” Located at the foot of the Chain Bridge on the Pest side of the Danube, the Art Nouveau–Secessionist building has mosaics, stained glass, and ironwork. Be sure to ask for a high-level room for the best experience—“I was disappointed because we were on the mezzanine level just above the lobby and the street. Not much to see.” “It’s a historic building with great decor.” “Huge rooms” in beige and browns have vaulted ceilings; the suites have fireplaces and touches of peacock purple. Gresham restaurant serves Italian, international, and Hungarian cuisine as well as Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee and Japanese green tea.
Ireland
Ashford Castle Hotel, Co. Mayo
This thirteenth-century former monastery against a backdrop of forests, mountains, and Lough Corrib, is “in a class of its own.” Formerly the Guinness family home, and a location in John Ford’s The Quiet Man, it now has guest rooms with high ceilings and four-poster beds, some with fireplaces, antique furnishings, and claw-foot tubs—though they can be “tired-looking.” Most rooms have a decanter of sherry or an Irish liqueur. “Beautiful grounds have fantastic recreational activities,” such as skeet shooting, falconry, and private hawk walks. “Service throughout is outstanding.” The Connaught Room serves French cuisine. Specialty drinks at the Prince of Wales Bar include Black Velvet, which mixes equal parts champagne and Guinness, and Arthur’s Bellini—peach schnapps topped with, naturally, Guinness.
Adare Manor Hotel & Golf Resort, Co. Limerick
This nineteenth-century neo-Gothic manor surrounded by medieval ruins and castles, and hidden by the Maigue River and a barricade of trees, is “a photographer’s dream.” With a village just beyond the manor’s grounds, authentic Irish pubs are within reach. The “fairy-tale setting” includes rooms with lush fabrics and marble bathrooms. Seek out the condos—“they are spacious, modern, and truly have every amenity.” Staff “make sure you’re well taken care of,” while “the golf course is world-class.” At the Carriagehouse Restaurant, the food is “tasty and addictive.” Go to the wood-paneled Oakroom, overlooking the river, for dinner by candlelight.
Dromoland Castle, Co. Clare
Guests “feel like royalty” at this “outrageously beautiful” sixteenth-century fortified castle on a 410-acre estate with gardens and a lake. The limestone exterior of towers and turrets gives way to interiors with Waterford crystal chandeliers, damask wall coverings, and tasseled drapes. The staff are “attentive and friendly,” and the “lovely rooms” have Empire and Louis XV furnishings, floral fabrics, and eighteenth-century botanical drawings. The “warm and welcoming” bar offers cocktails with live music, and the Earl of Thomond serves “fabulous local seafood and meat”—dishes like Irish beef with leeks and cèpes. Spend your days on the tennis courts or at the falconry school or golf academy, which has ten driving bays.
Ballynahinch Castle Hotel, Connemara, Co. Galway
“The setting is something out of a fairy-tale book—lush greenery, lake, silence. It’s just gorgeous, like a rich uncle’s country estate.” Located an hour west of Galway City, the 250-year-old castle hotel is next to a salmon fishery and below the Twelve Bens Mountain Range, with 450 acres of woodland, rivers, and walking trails. Rooms, some of which are individually decorated in green and blue silks and cottons, “are too old, though—they need sprucing up and improving.” Dine at The Owenmore, which serves locally caught fish and game along with Connemara lamb; desserts include gingerbread with poached plums.
Mount Juliet Estate, Co. Kilkenny
“A beautiful property that takes you back in time and makes you feel like you are truly on a working estate,” this Georgian mansion was once the residence of the Earl of Carrick. Set on a hill overlooking the River Nore, the eighteenth-century estate’s grounds are complete with a championship golf course, equestrian center, and health club. Enjoy “horseback riding through the beautiful 1,500 acres each day,” as well as archery and skeet shooting. “French country chic” rooms mix antiques and hand-embroidered fabrics. Dine on international dishes prepared with local produce and herbs at Lady Helen. “If you want to relax and just take in the beauty of Ireland, stay here.”
The Merrion, Dublin
This Upper Merrion Street hotel opposite the Government Buildings combines four eighteenth-century Georgian town houses that were originally built for wealthy Irish merchants and nobility. (The first Duke of Wellington was born in house No. 24.) The original Georgian features, including the intricately detailed Rococo plasterwork, were preserved; rooms and suites in the houses and Garden Wing are “classy but understated” with a light palette and Carrara-marble bathrooms. The Cellar Bar is in the original wine vaults. Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud cooks dishes like red king crab cannelloni and mellow-spice Wicklow lamb
Four Seasons Hotel, Dublin
“Out of the hustle-bustle of the city” yet “a 20-minute walk from the heart of Dublin,” this roughly 10-year-old property fits in with such august Georgian ...
Italy
Il San Pietro di Positano
Carved into the hillside above the Bay of Positano, this hotel is “jaw-droppingly beautiful.” Surrounded by “floral extravaganza,” rooms tucked into cliff ledges have tiled floors and bright curtains. The “breathtaking views of the blue water” are enjoyed through huge windows and from private terraces topped by straw canopies. Ride the elevator to the private beach or enjoy a complimentary ride around the bay on the hotel’s boat. The Mediterranean fare is “superb and addictive” at Il San Pietro, and Carlino offers lunch at the beach. “Best in show in southern Italy.”
Palazzo Sasso, Ravello
“If I could only go to one place again in my life, it would be here. Everything was perfect!” The design of this twelfth-century medieval and Baroque palace in the town’s former aristocratic quarter receives a perfect score. Rooms are outfitted in handcrafted Vietri tiles, eighteenth-century Italian antiques, brass accessories, and Frette linens. At Rossellinis, enjoy dinner on one of the terraces, looking down on fishing boats a thousand feet below, sampling dishes like cod fillet with Gaeta olive crust. Caffè dell’Arte, with a black-and-white-tile floor, has casual regional food.
Hotel Hassler, Rome
“What’s Rome without the Hassler?” Atop the Spanish Steps, this 1893 institution has “the absolute best view over the historical heart of Rome.” The rooftop restaurant, Imàgo, couples panoramic vistas with its regional cuisine. Interiors are done in shades of ocher, red, and cream, while individually designed rooms have Limoges porcelain, velvet headboards, and Venetian lamps. The seventh-floor Penthouse Suite has a beige C-shaped sofa, a walnut-paneled sitting room, and a 1,700-square-foot terrace with expansive views of the Eternal City. “The elegance, sophistication, friendliness, and warmth can be seen and felt here.” “The staff are incredible, especially the concierge.”
Hotel Splendido & Splendido Mare, Portofino
“The setting lives up to its name“ at this two-building property. One part of the hotel is a sixteenth-century hillside former monastery that was attacked by Saracen pirates; the Mare half is on the piazzetta by a lively harbor. Some of the rooms—most of them with balconies—offer panoramic views of Portofino cove. At the Splendido, anticipate gilt console tables and Persian rugs on pale wood floors. Staff “go out of their way to make your stay memorable.“A wellness center that opened in 2011 offers treatments with rhassoul clay, and an Indian head massage. Don’t miss the heated saltwater pool. La Terrazza specializes in seafood.
Park Hyatt Milan
Dating to the 1870s, this former bank headquarters is in a “great position that can’t be beat,” facing Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. The “ultra comfortable and stylish” design includes a glass cupola lounge with a giant sculpture of the head of Medusa, and rooms done in apricot and beige with marble inlays and high ceilings. “The attentive staff are just perfect.” Finished in pastel Venetian stucco, the newly renovated spa has a whirlpool wall made of glass and 250,000 pieces of mosaic with gold leaf. Dine on seasonal Italian at the Park Restaurant. “This is the best Hyatt property that I’ve ever stayed at.”
Monaco
Hôtel de Paris, Monte Carlo
The “beautiful and elegant” 1864 Belle Époque palace stands “right next to the Casino and Opera House.” “Gorgeous, but stuffy in a French way,” the interior is gilded and heavy with marble. The Central Cellar holds over 600,000 bottles of wine; Le Grill’s retractable roof opens in the summer to “let in the air, the stars, and the sound of the sea,” and you’ll have views of the Mediterranean as you dine on Brittany lobster salad and grilled duck foie gras. Nineteenth-century-style rooms have printed fabrics on the walls, and the Winston Churchill suite showcases furniture that once belonged to the statesman. At the nearby Les Thermes Marins spa (which is connected to the hotel by a tunnel), facilities include a heated saltwater pool and a hammam.
Hotel Métropole Monte Carlo
This Belle Époque hotel was built in 1886 on land that previously belonged to Pope Leo XIII. Located near Casino Square, its design has a contemporary edge and a glass-domed atrium. Modest rooms have textured carpet, floral bedding, and slate bathrooms—some have Mediterranean views. Enjoy “great food” throughout; for Japanese in a secluded garden dining room go to Yoshi, opened by Joël Robuchon. Service is “perfect through and through.” The spa has a sauna, hammam, caldarium, ice fountain, and aromatherapy showers.
Hôtel Hermitage, Monte Carlo
This 1900 landmark has a signature glass dome designed by Gustave Eiffel that “sparkles like a jewel.” Rooms in beige and red or beige and blue have busy ...
Netherlands
Hotel De l'Europe
“Well located on the Amstel River and central to everything,” this 1896 property is “a grand old hotel with updated amenities.” Opened in 2010, the new ...
Portugal
Olissippo Lapa Palace, Lisbon
“Every aspect of this hotel was superb, with the only possible drawback being its location. Even so, we would stay here again in a heartbeat.” Situated in the traditional Lapa Quarter (the embassy district) near St. Jorge’s Castle, its hilltop location places it a five-minute walk from the docks. Built in 1870 as a private residence, the hotel is divided into three different sections—palace wing, garden wing, and Villa Lapa. Suites on the fifth floor have original furnishings from 1870 and gold leaf–framed mirrors. Views of the Tagus River complement the Mediterranean fare at Lapa Restaurant. Bar Rio Tejo has live music and over 40 different types of tea. “Staying here for the first time was a nice discovery.”
Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon
Designed in 1952, this hilltop modernist edifice is for some “definitely the nicest hotel in Lisbon.” Lavish interiors remain mostly as they were in the 1960s—handwoven tapestries by national artist José Sobral de Almada Negreiros, eighteenth-century furniture. Most rooms have private balconies with vistas of the Old Town and Eduardo VII Park; all have marble bathrooms. “The concierges at the hotel make it happen. They are the best.” Local port and cheese supplement the seafood menu at Varanda. A rooftop running track traces the perimeter of the building.
Bairro Alto Hotel
“The nearby shopping is wonderful” at this hotel in artsy Bairro Alto, and “helpful staff” point out the most fashionable cafés and boutiques. The 1770’s ...
Scotland
Culloden House Hotel, Inverness
Set in a “calming location in the Scottish Highlands,” this ivy-covered Georgian country retreat has 40 acres of grounds and a walled garden. Public spaces have high ceilings and chandeliers. Rooms, some with fireplaces, “are gorgeous and huge, and they have the most comfortable beds I have slept in.” Garnering a perfect score, the “impeccable service” includes handwritten notes welcoming guests—“who does that anymore?” Choose from 200 malt whiskeys at the Library Bar, or visit the dining room for an “outstanding menu” mixing Scottish and Continental fare. Outdoors, guests busy themselves with tennis, croquet, woodland walks, and jogging on the property’s trails. “Everyone is treated like a friend, not a guest. It’s such a joy.”
Old Course Hotel, St. Andrews, Fife
In a “killer location” steps away from the seventeenth fairway, “this is the place to stay if you love golf.” Constructed on the site of the original St. Andrews railway station, this resort owned by the Kohler company offers sweeping vistas across the links to the North Sea. Jacques Garcia–designed rooms in earth tones have splashes of the resort’s signature red; bathrooms have chromotherapy fixtures. “Courteous, prompt, professional service—from front desk to golf club storage—is just as you’d expect.” A deep relaxation suite was recently added to the Kohler Waters Spa. Road Hole Restaurant serves “good venison and lamb”; its bar stocks over 200 different whiskeys.
The Balmoral, Edinburgh
Next to the train station, this “memorable hotel” with a landmark clock tower has “the best views of Edinburgh”—including vistas of the castle and Old ...
Turnberry Resort, Ayrshire
Next to the train station, this “memorable hotel” with a landmark clock tower has “the best views of Edinburgh”—including vistas of the castle and Old ...
Gleneagles Hotel
“The approach is enticing” at this château that “reminds one of a stately private home.” Helpful staff give “smiles to everyone.” “Totally relaxing rooms ...
Inverlochy Castle
“The view of Ben Nevis is romantic” at this crenellated 1863 castle with “well-appointed rooms that blend the new and old seamlessly.” The “really incredible ...
Spain
Parador Hostal dos Reis Catolicós, Santiago de Compostela
Located on the main square adjacent to the Catedral de Santiago, this national monument was founded as a hostel and hospital for pilgrims by the Catholic Monarchs in 1499. The property’s rich history is reflected and restored in its Spanish Renaissance and Baroque decor: Vaulted ceilings, antique furniture, and seventeenth- and eighteenth-century original artwork set the tone throughout the interior. Guests are treated to “a true five-star experience” in spacious guest rooms furnished with traditional textiles and views of the Plaza del Obradoiro. Dos Reis offers regional Spanish specialties such as Galician veal fillet, as well as vegetarian and gluten-free selections, in the former stables of the Royal Hospital.
Hotel Alfonso XIII, Seville
In an “unbelievable location” near the Giralda tower and the Cathedral, this Andalusian palace is designed with square towers, Renaissance-style windows, and Triana ceramics. The “wonderful old-world charm” includes gardens surrounding a typical Sevillian inner courtyard with a fountain. “Beautiful rooms” have Castilian, Baroque, and Moorish influences, marble floors, and silk-covered walls; some have crystal chandeliers. San Fernando Restaurant serves international cuisine and Andalusian dishes; tapas and cocktails are the draws at Piazza Martini. “Exceptional service from very nice staff” is the norm. The hotel reopens in March 2012 after an extensive renovation.
Hotel Arts, Barcelona
Expect “fantastic architecture,” a “perfect location on the beach,” and “stunning views” of the beach and city from this 44-story glass-and-steel tower in the 1992 Olympic Village. The pool is “a relaxing oasis from the hustle and bustle of Barcelona” and also a “must-see-and-be-seen spot.” Rooms are “chic and high-tech,” decorated with natural stone and sand tones, walnut wood, and cotton fabrics. After dining at Enoteca, “you’ll go home and dream about the Iberian ham.” “High-class service” from the staff, but “I wish they’d smile a bit more.” Check out the giant Frank Gehry fish sculpture out front.
Hotel Ritz Madrid
This 1910 Paseo del Prado property next to the Madrid Stock Exchange allows guests easy access to the Prado, Reina Sofía, and Thyssen-Bornemisza museums. Individually designed Belle Époque rooms and suites are “beautiful but somewhat shabby” and come with Irish linens and handcrafted carpets by Real Fábrica de Tapices. Try tapas on the outdoor terrace at Goya; its “buffet is very expensive.” Afternoon tea in the lobby is accompanied by Spanish guitar music “and fabulous people watching.” “Sophisticated staff are excellent”—when “a fire occurred one evening, they handled the situation very professionally. None of us felt in danger.”
Hotel Urban, Madrid
Opened as a hotel in 2005, this avant-garde building in the Austrias Madrid neighborhood has a “chic and cool” contemporary glass-and-steel design. Sleek rooms contrast East and West, with European leather headboards, eleventh-century Khmer statues, and Buddhist pieces from the Ch’in Dynasty. While some lament that “rooms are too small for truly world-class standards,” others laud “the fabulous suites.” Three different art collections—Oriental art, Papua New Guinean art, and a small Egyptian museum—are found inside. Europa Decó offers Mediterranean cuisine and a “great breakfast spread.”
Switzerland
Beau-Rivage Palace, Lausanne
“Something magical” describes this Belle Époque hotel overlooking Lake Geneva, set in ten acres of parkland. It was here that Lord Curzon and Benito Mussolini signed the Treaty of Lausanne in 1923, dividing the Ottoman Empire. Murals, frescoes, and stained-glass windows are hallmarks of the interior. Art Nouveau rooms are outfitted in Oriental carpets under cathedral ceilings, and some come with a view of the Alps—“that is the hotel’s best selling point.” Helpful staff “seem to love this place.” Lausanne may be small, but it is filled “with many surprises.” Anne-Sophie Pic restaurant offers contemporary French.
Fairmont Le Montreux Palace, Montreux
“My seven-year-old daughter cried when we left.” Used as a hospital to shelter Allied soldiers during both World Wars, this 1906 Belle Époque hotel on the shore of Lake Geneva, at the foot of the Alps and near Chillon Castle, scores perfectly for location. The yellow canopies over rooms’ balconies give it a distinctive exterior. The 2011 refurbishment of a number of rooms restored original architectural details and added a color palette of prune, lime, and stone. Staff “made us feel like a prince and princess in a dream.” La Brasserie specializes in Swiss cuisine. The spa’s Mountain Magic treatment uses avocado oil.
Baur au Lac, Zürich
Opened in 1844, and operated by the same family since, this hotel has hosted greats like Joan Miró and Plácido Domingo. The “wonderfully located hotel” is set in a garden near the shopping drag Bahnhofstrasse, and looks onto Lake Zurich and the Alps. “Beautiful rooms” that mix Art Deco, Louis XVI, and Regency styles, are individually decorated in neutral tones with red, purple, and teal accents. “Staff have a way to make you feel at home, and my, what a home!” Rive Gauche is a chic Mediterranean restaurant, while the seasonal Terrasse is a popular open-air spot to lounge over chilled cocktails on warm summer nights.
Park Hyatt Zurich
“Just off the lake and a short walk into the center,” this “impeccable high-rise” near Bahnhofstrasse has a reception area with a bamboo garden, a polished blackberry-colored granite floor, and cream-colored leather paneling. Minimalist rooms decorated in warm hues have Italian furniture, deep soaking tubs, and Blaise Mautin toiletries. “It’s classically understated as a whole.” Parkhuus has floor-to-ceiling windows and emphasizes seasonal ingredients in pan-European fare such as green pea cream soup and rainbow trout with wild herbs. Its wine library is two stories tall and holds more than 3,000 bottles.
Victoria-Jungfrau Grand Hotel & Spa, Interlaken
Take pleasure in the “richness and history of this magnificent hotel” situated between two lakes and overlooking Interlaken’s central green. Uniting two nineteenth-century hotels, the property also offers views of the Alps. Rooms are decorated in Belle Époque style; the Bel Air spa suites are loft-like, with light gray colors, natural woods, Asian design elements, and deep tubs that fill in 60 seconds. At the Sensai Select Spa, experience a three-hour Indulgence in Silk treatment, which includes a body exfoliation with silk gloves, a full-body massage, and a double-moisturizing treatment. The “fabulous service” is the “best of the best in Switzerland.” La Pastateca’s menu includes international pasta and noodle dishes. “Find a table on the terrace, order lunch, admire the view, and people watch.”
Turkey
Four Seasons Istanbul at Sultanahmet
A former Turkish prison, this mustard-yellow hotel surrounds a landscaped courtyard garden—the old prisoners’ exercise yard. The three-story neoclassical property is five minutes from the covered bazaar and spice market. It retains touches of its past, such as in an inmate’s inscription on a marble pillar. Watchtowers house the elevators. “It seems smaller and feels more intimate than it is. We were called by name everywhere we went. The concierge was incredible.” “Rooms are beautifully arranged, with breathtaking views of the courtyard,” and have headboards and bedposts that resemble a mosque’s dome and minarets. While the formal dining at Seasons “is simply okay,” “the rooftop has stunning views of the Hagia Sophia illuminated at night.”
Ciragan Palace Kempinski, Istanbul
Enjoy “the ultimate Istanbul experience” at this hotel on the Bosphorus, which blends a former sultan’s palace with a modern building. Palm trees and gazebos embellish the hotel’s outdoor space, but the centerpiece is a “perfectly maintained waterfront infinity pool.” Beige and blue interiors are decked out in nineteenth-century furniture, custom wool carpets, and soaring columns. Rooms mix East and West and have beds with sturdy wood headboards and partial canopies, and suites with flat-screen TVs. Ottoman cuisine and live classical Turkish music are the attractions at Tuğra. Turkish afternoon tea in the Gazebo Lounge “is highly recommended.”
Swissôtel The Bosphorus, Istanbul
This “grand hotel” on a wooded hilltop sits on the gardens of Dolmabahçe Palace, the last residence of the Ottoman sultans. From “the very busy lobby,” guests proceed to rooms in muted colors, with bleached-wood furniture, espresso machines, and views of the city and the Bosphorus. “Expensive dining” options range from Japanese at Miyako to Chalet—constructed from a chalet imported from the Swiss mountains and serving Alpine cuisine. For late-night cocktails and a live DJ, visit Gaja Sky bar. Receive complimentary fruit at the outdoor pool. “All you have to do here is ask and you will receive.”
Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at the Bosphorus
This nineteenth-century Ottoman palace sits on the European bank of the Bosphorus strait and has vistas of the hills of Asia—“magnificent views.” Interiors in beige, taupe, aqua, silver, and teal honor Ottoman design with traditional artwork. Rooms are divided between two wings with copper roofs and stone-and-stucco exteriors, and some have “amazing high windows with spellbinding water views.” “Stay here at the end of your trip. It’s excellent, though pricey.” Aqua serves Italian and Turkish specialties.
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